I caught the F train to Manhattan at 9 am and stood among heaps dreary-eyed people trying to mind their own business. Most people on the train take a gander at everyone else, only they are careful to dissimulate it. I guessed the nationalities of the various characters all around me, China, Philippines, Russia, Ecuador… What about the couple with the gaudy gold jewelry, sunglasses, and matching sports jerseys? Puerto Rican New Yorkers- Newyorkinos. The stalky guy with new brand-spankin’ new old Jordan’s, the hoody with neon silk-screened designs, and the too big baseball cap with the bill completely flat and the tag still on it? Brooklyn, I’d reckon. What about the three portly gentlemen with sombreros and guitars of different shape and sizes, singing an old ballad of Besame Mucho? Mexico, I’d bet my last ten bucks on it. What about the girl with the polka dot yellow dress and the shiny red heels, looking at me? Probably Japan, she’s almost too stylish to be Korean. New Yorkers are quick to size other people up, because the first impression is often the only impression you get in New York City. Most people put everybody else in a box at first sight, you automatically are whoever your outward indications suggest. Your clothes are a language of signs, and so your posture, your body type, your slicked back hair. That guy with the ostentatious shades, the scepter, and crocodile skin boots has dressed the part of a hustler, but who knows what he’s into. This girl in the yellow polka dot dress is… beautiful and still staring. I took out two suckers and offered her one, which she accepted, but we were both too shy to speak. The bedroom eyes were in full effect, however. The train bounced along through the dank tunnels, sometimes next to other mirrored moving rooms where people are like us, subdued, floating over cesspools where rats reign supreme and by forgotten subterranean lairs where bums sit together in filth and darkness, sharing cigarettes and trying to keep warm, or such is my mythology. I gave the Mariachis a dollar and got off the train at Broadway Lafayette. Then I watched the girl in the yellow polka dots watch me as the train slid away.
I got back on the F train at 14th Street, going uptown. Why did I ever get off? No reason in particular, but my metrocard is unlimited, so why the hell not? Besides, the F train is often full, perhaps because it traverses from the southernmost point of Brooklyn, Coney Island, tracing the numerical middle of Manhattan, 6th Avenue, to the outer reaches of Jamaica Queens. Moreover, a little promenade can be delectable in the city, you pass sleek sunglassed women with six shopping bags slipping through the crowds like wraiths, still men weeping in narcotic euphoria on the steps of the cathedral, women down and out who borrow babies for their day jobs as sedentary mendicants, bejeweled weed dealers with gold grills that pop out flashing dime bags from behind cement stoops and wrought-iron rails. What’s not to like? The train pulled up with gail force winds, just as I was descending the stairs. A little teenage Indian girl wrapped in neon saris was ascending the stairs with her mother, and she stopped to look back and watch me. Then, she turned, head down and followed her mother. Beep boop, the train doors shut and I swiped a seat between a sleeping Levantine man, on my left, berobed in galabiya with a white beard following his jawbone and a white embroidered skullcap enclosing the creases of his brow and an another man, on my right, this one occidental with shades and a newsboy hat. I started talking to the guy in the shades and learned that he was a jazz musician from Cuba, now playing in NYC for five years. He was going to play that night in the West Village and I promised myself that I’d be there (and I was). Just then, an old woman looked up from her Bible and started jabbering in Russian. I understood nothing at first, but as the cadence of her sentences started to roll along more smoothly, I realized she was quoting from the scriptures. The man in the skull cap awoke and was watching her intently, I remarked. Then, she changed languages and began speaking English. She was clearly distraught and tears hovered at the edges of her speech, when she mentioned her daughter. Oh, my daughter! She unintentionally reminded herself, seemingly wounded by the words themselves. My daughter was kind, never a bad word was spoken of her! And she started sobbing, calling out to the pasajeros ensimismados for sympathy, in vain. I instinctively got up and went over to her. (more…)

